Upo Tambuli, one of the most widely grown commercial bottle gourd varieties in the Philippines. Photo: Juan Magsasaka.
Upo, known internationally as bottle gourd or calabash (Lagenaria siceraria), is one of the most familiar vegetables in the Filipino kitchen. It shows up in sinigang, dinengdeng, pinakbet, and ginisa year-round, which means demand from households and food service buyers is steady regardless of season. For Filipino farmers, that steady demand combined with a short production cycle and low capital requirement makes upo one of the most accessible vegetables to grow commercially.
Upo is a warm-season cucurbit vine. It belongs to the same family as squash, ampalaya, patola, and pipino. Like its relatives, it is a fast grower that rewards good soil preparation, proper trellising, and timely fertilization with generous yields. And like its relatives, it can frustrate the unprepared farmer with sudden pest infestations, poor fruit set from imbalanced soil, or disease from wet conditions and poor drainage.
This guide covers everything you need to know to grow upo well in the Philippines, whether you are starting with a small backyard plot or planning a larger commercial operation. We will go through variety selection, land preparation, both direct seeding and transplanting methods, fertilizer scheduling, trellising, pruning, irrigation, pest and disease management, harvesting, and market opportunities.
1. Nutritional Value and Why Upo Is Worth Growing
Upo is often described as a mild-tasting vegetable, but its nutritional profile is far from mild. A 100-gram serving of fresh upo contains significant amounts of Vitamin C, B-complex vitamins including thiamine and riboflavin, calcium, phosphorus, iron, and dietary fiber. Its water content is very high at around 96%, which makes it a natural hydrating food and a practical vegetable for people managing weight, blood sugar, or cardiovascular health.
In traditional Filipino cooking, upo is prized for its ability to absorb the flavors of whatever it is cooked with, which makes it a versatile ingredient across regional cuisines. In Ilocano cooking it appears in dinengdeng; in Tagalog cooking in sinigang and guinisa; and in Visayan cooking it shows up in vegetable stews and coconut milk dishes. This broad culinary acceptance means that upo has a consistently wide consumer base across income levels and regions.
2. Variety Selection
Choosing the right upo variety before you buy seed is one of the most important decisions you will make. The varieties available in the Philippines differ significantly in fruit size, maturity, disease tolerance, transport suitability, and market preference. Match your choice to your planting season, soil type, target market, and distance to buyers.
| Variety | Supplier | Maturity (DAS) | Color | Shape | Key Features |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dalisay F1 ⭐ | East-West Seed | 65 | Bright green | Cylindrical with slight neck | All-year production; early and very productive fruit set; disease tolerant; strong commercial track record |
| Gauri F1 | Harveson | 42–45 | Light green | Long cylindrical | Earliest to mature; high yielding; fruit handles long-distance transport well |
| Magnifica | East-West Seed | 55 | Glossy bright green | Uniform size and shape | Recommended for year-round cropping; Class A fruit uniformity; longer shelf life per fruit |
| Tambuli ⭐ | East-West Seed | 60 | Bright green | Cylindrical | All-season variety; strong resistance to fungal infection; one of the most recognized commercial names in Philippine wet markets |
| Valentina F1 | Pilipinas Kaneko | 65–70 | Light green | Straight cylindrical | Highest fruit count: 12 to 16 fruits per plant; early maturing for its yield level; high producer |
| Upo Grande | Pilipinas Kaneko | 85 | Greenish white | Slender, long pointed | Year-round; very long fruits (7.6 x 63 cm); suited to specialty and restaurant markets wanting large format fruits |
3. Climate, Temperature, and Soil Requirements
Temperature and Humidity
Upo thrives in warm, humid conditions. The ideal temperature range for growth and fruiting is 30 to 35 degrees Celsius. At temperatures consistently above 35 degrees, the plant shifts toward producing more male flowers, which reduces fruit set. At temperatures below 20 degrees, growth slows significantly and germination becomes unreliable. Upo has zero tolerance for frost.
Humidity levels between 70% and 90% are ideal, particularly during the flowering and fruit development stages. In the Philippines, most growing regions naturally fall within this humidity range, which is one of the reasons upo grows so well here. The challenge is managing the flip side of that humidity: disease pressure from fungi and bacteria that also love the same conditions. Drainage and proper vine training become your main tools for keeping high humidity from becoming a problem.
Upo needs a minimum of six hours of direct sunlight daily. Shaded or poorly exposed sites produce weak vines with poor flowering and low fruit count. If you are planning a trellis system, site it where it will not be in the shadow of nearby trees, structures, or taller crops during the main growing hours from 8 AM to 2 PM.
While upo can be grown year-round in the Philippines, the two optimal planting windows for maximum yield and profitability are October to December and May to July. These periods align favorable temperature and humidity with manageable pest and disease pressure. Off-season production is possible and can fetch premium farmgate prices, but requires more attentive management of excess moisture in the wet season and heat stress in the dry season.
Soil Requirements
Upo performs best in well-drained loamy soil rich in organic matter, with a pH between 5.5 and 6.5. It will grow in sandy loam and clay loam soils, but each type requires management adjustments. Sandy loam soils drain quickly and need more frequent irrigation and heavier organic matter incorporation. Clay loam soils hold moisture well but can waterlog during heavy rains, which directly increases root rot and disease risk.
4. Land Preparation
Upo responds strongly to well-prepared soil. Taking the time to do land preparation properly reduces weeding labor, improves root development, and eliminates soil-borne pest pupae that can devastate young plants in the first two weeks after planting.
- Prepare the field as early as possible before planting, ideally two to three weeks in advance. This allows any weed stubble and residues from the previous crop time to decompose before you plant, reducing competition and breaking pest cycles.
- Plow two to three times alternately at one-week intervals. Plow at a depth of 15 to 20 cm. Alternating plow direction between passes ensures the entire soil profile is loosened, not just strip-plowed. The intervening week between passes allows weed seeds disturbed by the first plow to germinate so the second plow kills them before they establish.
- Harrow twice after plowing to break up large clods and level the field. A well-pulverized soil surface improves root penetration, enhances water distribution, and ensures the young seedlings or germinated seeds make good contact with moist soil from the first day.
- Lay out your beds and furrows. Prepare planting beds 3 meters apart (center to center) with hills spaced 1 meter apart within each row. This spacing allows the vigorous vines adequate space to climb and spread on the overhead trellis without crowding, which keeps air circulation good and reduces disease pressure.
- Incorporate organic matter into the planting holes or along the planting rows. Fully decomposed chicken manure or compost at 20 bags per hectare applied at planting provides the slow-release nutrient base and improves soil structure in the critical zone immediately around the developing roots.
5. Seed Preparation and Pre-Germination
Upo seed has a relatively hard seed coat, especially in older seed lots or seed stored in dry conditions. Pre-germination before sowing or transplanting gives you a head start on establishment and lets you select only viable, actively germinating seeds for planting, which means less replanting of failed hills.- Calculate your seed requirement. A hectare of upo requires 1 to 2 kg of seed depending on variety and expected germination rate. Hybrid varieties with guaranteed germination rates allow you to use the lower end of this range.
- Soak seeds in clean water for 24 hours. Use room temperature water and change the water once at the 12-hour mark to remove germination inhibitors that leach out of the seed coat. After soaking, seeds should feel swollen and slightly soft when pressed gently between fingers.
- Pre-germinate after soaking. Drain the water and wrap the soaked seeds in a moist cloth or paper towel. Place the wrapped seeds in a clean plastic bag or sealed container to retain moisture. Store in a cool, dark location at room temperature. Check daily for germination.
- Plant as soon as the seed coat cracks and the white radicle (root tip) begins to emerge. Do not wait for the radicle to elongate significantly before planting. Long radicles break easily during handling and planting, defeating the purpose of pre-germination.
6. Planting Methods: Direct Seeding and Transplanting
Upo can be established by direct seeding or by transplanting seedlings raised in a nursery. Both methods work well, and the choice often comes down to your seed cost, the season, and your soil conditions. Direct seeding is faster and cheaper. Transplanting gives you more control over early establishment and is especially useful during the rainy season when direct-seeded seeds can rot before germination.
Direct Seeding
- Plant one pre-germinated seed per hill at a depth of 2 to 3 cm. One seed per hill is the recommended standard for commercial production. Planting two seeds per hill and thinning wastes seed and means an extra visit to each hill one week after planting.
- Cover the seed with a thin, loose layer of soil. Do not pack the covering soil tightly. The emerging radicle needs to push through easily without mechanical resistance.
- Adjust planting position for the season. During the wet season, plant seeds on raised mounds or ridges to prevent the seed and young seedling from sitting in pooled water after heavy rain. During the dry season, plant in shallow furrows where water from irrigation channels more efficiently toward the seed.
- Thin to one plant per hill seven days after emergence if you planted two seeds as insurance. Remove the weaker or less vigorous seedling by cutting it at the soil surface rather than pulling it out, which would disturb the root system of the remaining plant.
- Replant any missing hills immediately using seedlings raised in pots or bags as backup. Gaps in the field reduce your total fruit production and also leave spaces that weeds will quickly fill.
Transplanting
Upo seedlings at 15 days old, just reaching the correct stage for transplanting. Photo: Juan Magsasaka.
- Prepare the seedling growing mediumby mixing one part compost or organic fertilizer, one part clay soil, and one part carbonized rice hull (CRH). A commercially prepared seedling mix can also be used. The CRH component improves drainage in the pot and prevents the root ball from becoming waterlogged during the nursery period.
- Fill potlets, plastic bags, or seedling tray cells with the prepared medium. Water the medium thoroughly before sowing. Sow one pre-germinated seed per cell or potlet at 2 to 3 cm depth, then cover lightly.
- Place filled trays or potlets under temporary shade during the first week. Direct sun immediately after germination can scorch the cotyledon leaves and cause desiccation of the delicate root. A bamboo slat shade structure that provides 30 to 40% shade is adequate.
- Water regularly but not excessively. The medium should stay consistently moist throughout the seedling stage. Overwatering causes damping off, a fungal condition that rots the stem at the soil surface and kills the seedling.
- Harden seedlings for three to five days before transplanting by gradually reducing shade and reducing watering frequency. This acclimatizes the seedling to the higher light intensity and drier conditions it will experience in the field and reduces transplant shock significantly.
- Transplant at 15 days after emergence when the seedling has developed 1 to 2 true leaves. One seedling per hill, spaced 1 meter between hills on beds 3 meters apart.
- Transplant in the afternoon or on a cloudy day. Avoiding midday sun during transplanting reduces wilting stress on the newly moved seedling. Water each hill immediately after planting to settle the soil around the root ball and eliminate air pockets.
- Replant missing hills within 3 days of the original transplanting date. Holes that remain empty for longer than a week become a weed problem and reduce your total per-hill fruit count because late-established plants never fully catch up to the rest of the field.
7. Fertilizer Application Schedule
Upo is a moderately heavy feeder, especially during its rapid vine expansion and fruit development phases. Soil fertility significantly affects both the number of female flowers produced and the size and quality of the fruit. A soil test from the nearest Bureau of Soils laboratory is the most accurate guide to fertilizer rates for your specific field. In the absence of a soil test, use the schedule below as a starting point.
| Fertilizer | Rate per Hectare | Timing | Method |
|---|---|---|---|
| 14-14-14 (Complete) | 2 bags (100 kg) | At planting (basal) | Place in planting hole and cover with 2 cm of soil before seeding or transplanting |
| Organic / Fully decomposed animal manure or commercial organic fertilizer | 20 bags | At planting (basal) | Mix into soil in the planting hole and along the planting row before seeding |
| 46-0-0 (Urea) | 2 bags (100 kg) | 30 days after planting | Side dress 10 cm away from plant base; cover with soil; irrigate after application |
| 46-0-0 (Urea) + 0-0-60 (Muriate of Potash) at 2:1 ratio | 2 bags urea + 1 bag MOP | 45 days after planting | Side dress 10 cm from plant base; mix well; cover with soil; irrigate |
8. Trellising
Upo is a vigorous climbing vine that can grow 5 to 10 meters long in a single season. Without a trellis, the vines sprawl on the ground, fruits touch the soil, and a combination of physical damage, insect access, and fungal infection quickly reduces your marketable yield. Trellising is not optional for commercial upo production.
An overhead trellis system is the standard approach in the Philippines because it allows fruits to hang freely, developing straight and uniform shape without contact with the soil surface. It also improves air circulation around the fruit and leaves, which directly reduces the incidence of fruit rot and foliar disease.
- Select trellis materials.Use bamboo poles or ipil-ipil posts for the main uprights. Bamboo is widely available, inexpensive, and strong enough for the weight of mature upo vines and fruits. For wire or twine, use galvanized tie wire for long-term durability or nylon twine for a lower-cost option that needs replacement each season.
- Drive upright posts at 2 to 3 meter intervalsalong the planting rows. Posts should be at least 2.5 meters long so that after being driven 50 cm into the ground, the overhead trellis sits at 2 meters height. Two meters is the practical working height that lets you walk under the trellis to harvest and manage the crop without stooping.
- Build the overhead gridby running tie wire or strong nylon twine crosswise and lengthwise across the tops of the upright posts. Space the grid lines 20 to 30 cm apart to create a stable surface for the vines to spread across. Tie each intersection of wire or twine securely to prevent sagging under the weight of a fully loaded vine.
- Install a vertical climbing structureat each plant's base. A bamboo stake or a vertical strand of twine running from the ground to the overhead grid at each hill gives the vine something to climb immediately after it begins extending. Without this, young vines trail along the ground instead of climbing, delaying their reach to the overhead trellis.
- Train the main vine upwardby loosely tying the stem to the vertical structure every 30 to 40 cm as it grows. Use soft ties, not wire, which can cut into the stem as it expands. Once the vine reaches the overhead grid, it will attach its own tendrils and spread without further training.
9. Pruning and Vine Management
Left completely unmanaged, upo vines produce a large amount of vegetative growth, especially lateral branches from the main stem. While the plant needs leaves to produce the energy for fruiting, excessive lateral branching at the lower parts of the vine creates a dense, humid canopy that favors disease and reduces air circulation around developing fruits. Strategic pruning improves yield quality without significantly reducing total production.
- Remove the tip of the main vineonce it reaches the top of the overhead trellis. This is called topping or de-tipping. It stops the plant from continuing to grow taller and redirects its energy into developing the lateral branches already on the overhead trellis, which are the branches that will bear most of the fruit.
- Remove all lateral branches from the climbing portion of the main stembelow the overhead trellis level. These lower lateral branches do not receive enough light to fruit well, but they consume significant amounts of water and nutrients. Removing them early keeps the plant energy focused where it counts.
- Leave all lateral branches that emerge on the overhead trellis.These are your fruiting branches and should be allowed to develop fully. Each node on these lateral branches is a potential site for female flower and fruit development.
- Remove old, yellowing, or disease-affected leavesas they appear throughout the season. Leaving them on the vine is a disease reservoir and a burden on the plant. Remove and dispose of them away from the field rather than leaving them at the base of the plant.
10. Irrigation and Water Management
Upo needs consistent soil moisture throughout the growing season, but it is equally sensitive to excess water as it is to drought. Getting the balance right determines whether your root system stays healthy and whether your plants produce consistently across the fruiting period.
🌞 Dry Season Irrigation
- First irrigation at 14 days after emergence by flooding the furrows
- Repeat every 7 days throughout the season or when soil feels dry at 5 cm depth
- Use furrow irrigation to keep water away from the stem base
- Mulch the base of plants with rice straw to extend the interval between irrigations
- Always irrigate after every fertilizer side dressing application
- Reduce irrigation frequency slightly during peak fruiting to avoid fruit cracking
🌧️ Wet Season Water Management
- Prioritize drainage above all else in the wet season
- Construct drainage furrows deep enough to handle heavy downpours
- Raise planting beds or mounds above the furrow level
- Check furrows after every heavy rain and clear blockages immediately
- Reduce irrigation frequency to match actual rainfall; irrigate only when needed
- Never allow standing water near plant bases for more than 12 hours
11. Weeding and Cultivation
Upo has a moderately deep taproot with an extensive lateral root system that fans out significantly from the plant base. This means cultivation tools used for weeding must stay shallow near the plant to avoid cutting lateral roots. Root damage from careless weeding opens pathways for soil-borne diseases and weakens the plant at the critical moment when it should be directing energy into fruit development.
- Off-bar at 14 days after planting.Off-barring uses a hand hoe or small cultivator to scrape the soil between rows and direct it away from plant bases, cutting emerging weeds below the soil surface and loosening compacted topsoil. Perform this shallowly, staying at least 20 cm from plant bases.
- Hill up at 15 to 20 days after emergence(or one month after planting if the field is unmulched). Hilling up draws soil back toward the plant base, buries emerging weeds near the row, and supports the developing stem as the vine begins to grow. It also improves drainage away from the crown of the plant during the rainy season.
- Switch to hand weeding during the fruiting stage.Once the vines have climbed the trellis and fruits are developing, avoid all mechanical cultivation near the plant. Root disturbance during fruiting causes stress that can lead to premature fruit drop. Hand-pull or cut weeds at the soil surface instead.
- Apply rice straw mulcharound the base of plants after hilling up. A 5 to 8 cm thick mulch layer suppresses weed germination in the critical zone immediately around the plant and reduces evaporation between irrigations. It also keeps the soil cooler during hot dry-season days, which benefits the root zone temperature.
12. Pollination and Flower Management
Upo is a monoecious plant, meaning it produces separate male and female flowers on the same vine. Male flowers always appear first, often 1 to 2 weeks before the first female flower opens. Female flowers are recognizable by the small, immature fruit (ovary) visible at the base of the flower below the petals. Male flowers have only a straight stem below the petals with no swelling.
Upo flowers typically open in the late afternoon and into the evening. This is an important fact for pest management: chemical sprays applied after 4 PM risk killing or repelling the bees, moths, and beetles that pollinate upo flowers. Without pollination, female flowers drop without setting fruit and your yield drops significantly.
If you observe female flowers developing but dropping before setting fruit even without pesticide interference, the most likely causes are: extreme heat above 35 degrees Celsius, waterlogged soil limiting root function, excessive nitrogen making the plant stay vegetative, or an absence of pollinators from the area due to habitat loss or pesticide use by neighboring farms.
13. Insect Pest Management
Upo, like all cucurbits, attracts a specific set of insect pests that are highly adapted to the Cucurbitaceae family. Managing them early and correctly prevents the rapid population explosions that can devastate a field within days.
14. Disease Management
Like other cucurbits, upo is susceptible to a range of fungal and bacterial diseases, most of which are favored by the warm, humid conditions that the Philippines provides in abundance. Prevention through good cultural practices is far more effective and less expensive than curative spraying after infection is established.
15. Harvesting and Post-Harvest Handling
Upo fruits develop quickly after pollination. In warm Philippine lowland weather, a fruit can go from successful pollination to marketable harvest size in as little as 12 to 15 days. This rapid development means that twice-weekly field walks during the peak fruiting period are not optional. They are essential. Fruits left too long on the vine past their marketable stage continue to mature, develop a hard and fibrous skin, and become unsellable fresh. Overripe fruits also divert the plant's energy away from developing the next set of fruits on the same vine, reducing your total per-plant yield.
- Harvest at the correct maturity stage.For most commercial varieties this is when the fruit is fully elongated to the expected variety length, the skin is still bright green and smooth, and a light surface fuzz is still visible. This fuzz is soft trichomes (fine surface hairs) that are naturally present on immature upo skin. Once the fuzz disappears, the skin starts to feel slightly waxy or harder, and the color begins to pale or yellow slightly and the fruit is approaching or past the optimal fresh market stage.
- Know your variety's expected harvest window.Most varieties reach marketable size 60 to 80 days from sowing, which translates to about 15 days from fruit set. Gauri F1, the fastest-maturing variety, can be harvested as early as 42 to 45 days from sowing. Upo Grande is the latest at 85 days. Within a season, harvest frequency increases as the vine matures and multiple fruits develop simultaneously.
- Use a sharp, clean knife or pruning shear to cut the peduncle (fruit stem).Leave approximately 5 cm of peduncle attached to the fruit. This stub slows moisture loss from the cut end, reduces the entry of post-harvest rot pathogens, and gives buyers and retailers a visual indicator of freshness since a moist, green peduncle signals that the fruit was recently harvested.
- Handle harvested fruits with care at all stages.The skin of fresh upo is soft and damages easily. Finger pressure, rough surfaces at collection points, stacking without padding, or tossing fruits into containers all create bruise marks that develop into dark, soft spots within hours of harvest. Place freshly harvested fruits immediately into lined baskets, wooden crates padded with banana leaves, or ventilated plastic field crates.
- Grade and sort before packing for market.Separate fruits by size, length, and skin condition. Grade A fruits are straight, uniformly colored, free of blemishes or insect damage, and consistent in length for the variety. Grade B and C fruits that show minor cosmetic blemishes but are otherwise sound can be sold at lower prices to karinderya buyers or food processors. Never mix grades in a single container as it forces buyers to downgrade the entire lot.
- Deliver to market as quickly as possible after harvest.Fresh upo begins to soften, yellow, and lose weight at room temperature (28 to 32 degrees Celsius) within 2 to 3 days. For buyers within 4 hours transport distance, same-day or next-morning delivery after an overnight harvest is ideal. For longer distances, cool the fruits first.
- Cold storage if refrigeration is available.Store at 10 to 12 degrees Celsius at 85 to 90% relative humidity to extend shelf life to 7 to 10 days. Do not store below 10 degrees Celsius. Upo is a warm-season tropical crop and is susceptible to chilling injury at temperatures below this threshold. Chilling injury presents as surface pitting, waterlogging of the skin, and accelerated decay that develops rapidly once the cold-injured fruit is returned to ambient temperature.
16. Market Opportunities for Upo in the Philippines
Upo is one of the most accessible vegetables to sell in the Philippine market because it is consumed across all income levels and is familiar to buyers in every region of the country. Unlike specialty vegetables that require consumer education or access to premium buyers, upo sells at the nearest wet market without packaging, certification, or marketing investment. The challenge for commercial producers is not finding buyers, but achieving the consistent fruit size, color, and supply volume that builds repeat buyer relationships and commands a stable price across the season.
17. Startup Cost and Sample Budget
Upo is one of the lowest-capital entry points in commercial vegetable farming. The major cost items for a typical 1,000 square meter (1/10 hectare) commercial plot are listed below. These are approximate 2026 figures that will vary by region and supplier.
| Item | Estimated Cost (1,000 m²) | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Seeds (F1 hybrid, e.g. Dalisay F1 or Tambuli) | ₱300 to ₱600 | 1,000 m² needs approximately 20 to 30 g of seed at 1 seed per hill, 1 m spacing |
| 14-14-14 complete fertilizer (basal) | ₱400 to ₱600 | 2 bags per hectare basal rate; prorate to plot size |
| Organic fertilizer or fully decomposed manure | ₱500 to ₱800 | 20 bags per hectare; often available free or low cost on mixed farms |
| Urea (46-0-0) side dressings | ₱350 to ₱550 | First and second side dressings combined |
| Muriate of potash (0-0-60) | ₱300 to ₱450 | Second side dressing at 45 days |
| Trellis materials (bamboo poles, wire, twine) | ₱800 to ₱1,500 | Bamboo locally available; GI wire cost varies by area |
| Pest management (sprayer, registered products) | ₱400 to ₱800 | Includes neem oil, Deltamethrin for beetles, bait traps for fruit fly |
| Labor (land prep, planting, weeding, trellising, harvesting) | ₱2,000 to ₱4,000 | Varies significantly by region and season |
| Miscellaneous (baskets, ties, packaging) | ₱300 to ₱500 | |
| Estimated Total | ₱5,350 to ₱9,800 | Per 1,000 m² plot; varies by input prices and own-labor contribution |
✅ Philippine Upo Farming Success Checklist
- Choose your variety based on maturity target and market type. Use Tambuli or Dalisay F1 for reliable all-year commercial production. Use Gauri F1 for the earliest harvest. Use Valentina F1 for maximum fruit count.
- Prepare land at least 2 weeks before planting. Plow two to three times and build proper furrows or raised beds for your season.
- Pre-soak seeds in clean water for 24 hours, then pre-germinate in a damp cloth before planting. Plant only when the radicle just begins to emerge.
- Plant one seed or seedling per hill at 1 m between hills and 3 m between rows. Replant missing hills within 7 days.
- Always cover basal fertilizer with a thin soil layer before placing the seed. Side dress at 30 days with urea and at 45 days with urea plus muriate of potash.
- Build the overhead trellis at 2 m height before vines need it. Train the main vine upward; prune all lateral branches below the trellis level.
- Never spray pesticides after 4 PM. Upo flowers open in the evening and insecticide contact with pollinators directly reduces fruit set.
- Use furrow irrigation in the wet season; water weekly in the dry season. Never allow standing water near roots.
- Harvest with a clean knife, leaving 5 cm of peduncle. Handle fruits gently at all times. Grade before packing.
- Deliver or sell harvested fruits within 24 to 48 hours at room temperature, or store at 10 to 12 degrees Celsius for up to 10 days.
18. Frequently Asked Questions
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